ICELAND: DISCOVER A COUNTRY OF CONTRASTS By Janet Collins
When Iceland-born explorer Leif Ericsson discovered North America some 500 years before Columbus set sail, it is doubtful he could have imagined thousands of North American travelers making the reverse journey centuries later. But that is exactly what is happening. In fact, Iceland is fast becoming one of the world’s hottest travel destinations – so hot that tourism is now the country’s second largest foreign currency earner after fishing. Today, more than 50,000 Canadians and Americans descend upon the island nation each year. What they discover is a country of contrasts.
Iceland lives up to its name, thanks to a tremendous icecap and several glaciers. But it has a fiery underbelly that spawns volcanoes and geothermal springs. An eruption in 1963 birthed the wee island of Sutsey, located off the southern coast. Ten years later, another volcanic eruption submerged half a town on an adjacent island. Thankfully, not all Icelandic volcanoes are active at this time, but Mt. Hekla does put on a show every 10 years or so.
Water itself is a big draw. Spend some time walking the basalt beaches near Gardar or Langaholt, and you might find bits of amber. For a chance to view some natural treasures, take in the sights of some of the spectacular Icelandic waterfalls – at 198 meters, Glymur is the highest, but regular bus tours to Gullfoss make it one of the most popular. Not exciting enough? How about timing eruptions of the geysers at Geysir (which lent its name to all other geysers)? Not enough allure? Try your hand at fishing along the various rivers or coastlines, an angler’s paradise.
A word about hot water: in Iceland, it comes straight from the ground piping hot. You’ll get clean in the shower, even if the water does smell like rotten eggs.
The combination of ice and fire create a unique landscape that is teeming with recreational opportunities. Take a snowmobile tour of the Snaefellsjokull Glacier that was made famous by Jules Verne, or embark on a dogsled ride for a taste of real Nordic transportation. In the remote areas of the country, lava caves lure adventurous explorers.
Another popular activity is horseback riding. Iceland horses are a unique breed noted for their curiosity and gentle manner.
One of the coolest ways to enjoy time in Iceland is to visit one of the country’s famous geothermal pools. Reykjavik boasts several civic pools, including the popular Laugardalslaug outdoor pool. Depending on the time of your arrival, it’s possible to arrange a tour bus to meet you at the Keflavik airport and take you directly to the Blue Lagoon. Few things on earth rival the wonder of wallowing in the geothermal waters of this manmade lagoon during a snowfall – unless you combine the experience with a professional underwater massage.
The unique geography and geology of Iceland have made it a haven for many forms of wildlife. Avid birders flock to the island to view some of the world’s most fascinating winged creatures including puffins and a wide range of other seabirds. And while Iceland continues to be one of the few countries in the world to have an active whale fishery, the majestic creatures can often be spotted in coastal waters – tours are available to help guests get a closer look at dolphins, humpback, minke, sei whales, and orcas.
The beauty of being located so close to the Arctic Circle is heightened by the opportunity to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. And longer days mean it is possible to play golf at midnight during part of the year.
While outdoor activities are a major draw, there’s much to enjoy indoors as well. Reykjavik has one of the hottest club scenes in Europe. Groups of young people regularly fly in from the UK and Europe for a weekend of fun in the local clubs. The area around Laugavegur, the main shopping avenue, is home to many popular nightspots including Pravda and Broadway. When it comes to music, Bjork isn’t the only Icelander of note. Eivor Palsdottir (who could be seen alongside Bill Bourne at many Canadian folk festivals this summer) has gained an international following of her own. And while he’s not well known outside of his homeland, Mugison turns out high-energy techno-inspired tunes (locally labeled folk music) that are being aired further afield.
Iceland’s unique environment has made it the perfect backdrop for several movies. Scenes from two James Bond movies were filmed near Breidamerkursandur, for example. Filming of the soon-to-be-release “Beowulf and Grendel” (which stars Sarah Polley, among others) took place along the south coast of Iceland, near Hofn and Vik.
In contrast to these modern distractions, the Icelandic people have a strong reverence for their roots. Sagas and folklore still abound. Tales of trolls and ghost sightings are common. (When traveling around the countryside, look for stones and trees painted with little doorways – homes created for the wee folk when land has been cleared for building.) Ancient manuscripts and runes are frequently on display in area museums. If you’re lucky, you can also take in an Icelandic Tvisongur, a type of chant that has been handed down since the Middle Ages.
Art galleries are also worth taking in. Some, such as the Kapavogur Art Museum, specialize in one aspect of Icelandic art, in this case the sculpture and glass work of Gerdur Helgadottir.
Shopping in Iceland can be an interesting, and pricey, affair. The Laugavegur retail strip boasts many international label stores with import prices to boot. Popular tourist purchases include woolen goods made from the wool of Icelandic sheep, a unique animal that produces a double coat (the inner layer is like soft down). Fish skin leather goods are gaining in popularity, too. Ceramics made with a lava glaze are also highly prized souvenirs. Locally designed clothing and household goods, often as edgy in style as those produced in other Scandinavian countries, are also much sought after.
Dining out in Iceland can be an adventure in itself. Fish is the most popular menu item, although lamb dishes are also abundant. Local greenhouse-grown produce is also available. Wash down the meal with a pint of Viking beer, then top it off with a sip or two of schnapps, and you’ve got the makings of a memorable meal.
Take a final plunge in a thermal pool before heading back to hotel. As you drift off to sleep, you’ll no doubt be planning your next trip to Iceland. With so much to see and do, you’d be hard pressed to fit it all into just one trip.
Money Matters:
Iceland is pricey, to say the least. Given that this is an island nation, many goods have to be shipped or flown in. Most of the Icelanders I spoke with hold down more than one job just to make ends meet. The point was driven home after I paid $12 (Cdn) for a half sandwich in downtown Reykjavik. Best dining values were from family-owned restaurants outside of greater Reykjavik. Hotels are also expensive. Few are comparable to North American high-end standards. Guest houses and smaller hotels may offer the best value, especially if you don’t intend to spend a lot of time in your room. Buses are reasonably priced, but the transportation network is limited. Most Icelanders drive their own cars (why there so few people on the streets) as few things are within walking distance. Taxis are a better bet. Better still, rent a car. Road signage is good, so it’s easy to navigate your way around.
